Slow Grow

The big problem with having a real life and job is that it tends to eat into your hobby time. My wife keeps telling me it is a matter of sacrificing the less important bits in favor of the important things. I do agree, but we apparently have different opinions on which bits are the important ones.

So, slow progress on Ruin.

Airbrushing started. As usual, I first lay down a light grey primer (I used Vallejo model air primer) to seal the model and to make sure the paint will stick to it. I use a grey primer because white is too bright for most colors and black will always show through. With a grey primer, the colors will look more vibrant, without becoming too shiny.

Next, A layer of Game Air Charred Brown. I know, it’s basically 2 basecoats. I would rather have the charred brown in a primer, but they don’t sell anything close to it. I very often use a dark brown basecoat, even for grey colors, because it will give a more realistic, dirty shading to the model.

Let’s focus on the base.

First, I spray a layer of ModelAir Dark Sea Grey. I make sure to leave some of the brown shining through this layer.

Next, a layer of ModelAir Pale Blue Grey. This one is done more focused. On the one hand, I use it to define edges, on the other hand, I use it to create different tones in different bricks. If you spray it at a narrow angle to the wall, it creates a natural shading in the wall section.

Then, the brushes come out.

First, I drybrush the wall with GameColor Stonewall grey, focusing on the upper edges of the stonework. Then I pick out the lines between the stones and the sandy parts with charred brown again.

To finish the base off, I drybrush the sand parts. First with GameColor Earth, next with Gamecolor Khaki. When doing this, I also make sure to color a bit outside of the lines, to represent a bit of the sand and dirt caked to the brickwork.

Now, for the jack himself. Back to the airbrush.

The armor plating is done in 2 steps: yellow and red. First, a layer of ModelAir Dark Earth. I cover almost all of the armor plates with this color, only leaving tiny bits of the original Charred Brown.

Then comes the second coat, with ModelAir Wood. This is where it gets tricky. First, I want to use the lighter colors to create a bit of zenithal highlight on the model. On the other hand, the lighter colors are also tied into the whole starburst pattern, so it’s a bit of a trade off here, seeing what looks best.

The third coat for the yellow is ModelAir Yellow Ochre. I sometimes skip this step on smaller models, because it doesn’t really attribute to the whole gradient. It does however add some yellow to the mix, which makes it pop a bit more.

To top it all off, I put on a coat of ModelAir Light Brown. This is only applied to the lightest 10% of the panel (with a bit of overspray of course).

So far for the yellow next up: masking it all off, to paint the red parts on the model (and the troll).

In the mean time, I did manage to get another model ready. Because of the way I paint, I often have time to do some brushwork by hand, but not to take out the airbrush. Which is why I found time to finish eEyriss this week:

See you next time!